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October 1862


1 October 1862 • Wednesday

Wednesday, Oct. 1st 1862. I went up to Bro. Johann Jakob Eisenhut’s to administer to Sister Eliza Näg Egli who was sick. While there I saw the following persons. I ate some fruit and a cake and drank some milk. They were very glad to see me and I was pleased that I had called upon them. They [The] Sister was better before we left. About 1 p.m. we started in a carriage for Wattwyl passing through Lichtensteig. It was very rainy and clouds obscured the tops of the mountains and the view, yet the scenery was very good. We ascended and descended a good many hills down which the roads had to be made winding. The roads were very good. At Wattwyl we put up at the Hotel Toggenburg. After eating we walked about 2 miles to meet with a few of the Saints at the house of Bro. George Looser, President of the Branch, at Uhlensbach. It was a very retired spot and we were able to enjoy ourselves together without molestation. There were ten Saints present and five of us, Elders. Their singing was very delightful and we had the Spirit in our midst and rejoiced much. I spoke twice and Bro. Schettler interpreted as I spoke. The names of the Saints are as follows: {George and Johannes Looser, Jacob Naef, Conrad Sutter, Margaretha Honnegar, Caroline Reimann, Verena Schafflutzel, Catharine Naef, Elizabeth Looser, and Sister Lehman from Lichtensteig.} We walked back and were accompanied by some of the Saints who sang beautifully as we went along, a common practice in this country.

2 October 1862 • Thursday

Thursday, Oct. 2nd/62. Took stage this morning for Utznach. Before starting I went to be shaved and for the first time in my life was shaved by a female barber. It did not rain after we got on road and we had some splendid views of the mountains. The view was indescribably grand when we were descending from the mountains towards Utznach. In the distance on the one hand was Lake Zurich at our feet was a lovely valley bounded in the distance by rugged mountains whose precipitous sides were covered with timber and on our left were several towering mountains with their tops covered with the snow, in the valleys between which lay Glarus and other towns. At Utznach we took cars for Weesen about 8 miles distant. We went through the town to the Wallenstatter See, <one> [of] the deepest and most stormy lakes in Switzerland, on the border of which we had a feast of grapes. The <other> end of this lake can only be reached by water, or by climbing over the mountains, or by the railroad which passes through a number of tunnels. We watched the train with much interest enter and emerge from these tunnels. This land is a fit abode for liberty — freemen only should live here. It is not situated favorably for tyrants and to exercise oppression over a people who have any love for the rights of man. We walked back to Ziegelbrücke and climbed the point of a mountain from which we obtained an extensive view of the canton of Glarus, with the towns of Niederurnen, Oberurnen, Näfels, Mollis and Nettstall, Glarus town we could not see. The Mountains Dädi and Glärnisch, the latter overtopping the town of Glarus, with their snowy tops were seen. The South <Linth> Canal1 running out of these two valleys and draining them, emptied into Lake Zurich. This stream ran past the hotel <at> which we stopped and had been designed and completed by Conrad Escher, to whom his fellow citizens had erected a tablet calling him the benefactor of his country. Before this canal was cut off through this valley was so swampy as to be useless. Now, it is highly cultivated and thickly settled. We put up at the hotel Linth-Escher at the Ziegelbrucke Station and was comfortably and cheaply entertained. As we dare not go across the bridge over the Linth into the Canton Glarus, a few of the Saints who were there came over to see us. Bro. Huber told the people of the House that, being Americans, we were anxious to hear some Swiss singing, and he had made arrangements for some persons to come and sing for us. The Landlord readily assented and told him we were at home and to do as we pleased. So we had three sisters and a brother (Caroline and Margaretha Wickli, Anna Wichser & Heinrich Schneider) come up to our room and we spent a very delightful evening in listening to them sing — the young women and bro. Huber, all being excellent singers, making splendid music. In the intervals between the singing I instructed them. We parted about 10 p.m.. About this time, the moon, which in the forepart of the evening had been obscured by clouds, shone forth with great brilliancy making it very light and the surrounding mountains very beautiful.

3 October 1862 • Friday

Friday, Oct. 3rd. 1862. Arose early and saw from our window the sun’s first rays kiss the snowy tops of the mountains. Oh how much like home this looked! We started for Rapperswyl at 7.24 A.M. and reached there at 9.15 A.M. Coming down this Valley reminded me of Cache Valley, to which it bears some resemblance. This town is at the head of Lake Zurich and we here took steamer (the Schwan) for Zurich at 10.25 a.m. While waiting here for the steam-boat we had an interview with Sister Barbara Knecht on the bridge running across the end of the Lake from Rapperswyl to Canton Schwyz. It was very pleasant sailing down the lake to Zurich passing and calling at the towns and villages on each bank to take on and put off passengers. The women work at rowing the large boats loaded with freight and market produce and the small boats which bring and take off passengers as commonly as the men. To an American it is an unpleasant sight to see women put to such severe labor. One woman who came off on a boat with some passengers seemed to be in an advanced state of pregnancy. As we were coming off the bridge at Rapperswyl to go to the steamboat we met two women going out with two large iron handles to hoist two pieces of the bridge to permit a steamer to pass through. There seems to be no work scarcely for which they are thought to be unfitted. Elizabeth was glad to see us again. She had been somewhat lonely; but still had done very well and seemed much better for her rest. Wrote to Bro. De la Mare on the Channel Islands and Bro. Bramall, Southampton, appointing meetings and to Bro. Bertrand, Paris, for information where to go when I reachd there. In the evening attended meeting with the Saints about two miles from Zurich in the suburbs. It is the first time they have met before in a house since Spring. I dedicated the house in prayer by request of Bro. John L. Smith. There were about 40 Saints and Strangers present, and we were at liberty to sing and pray and speak with perfect liberty — a privilege which we felt to appreciate. We enjoyed our meeting very much. The Spirit of the Lord was with us. Bro. John L. made a few remarks and Bro. Jesse N. followed. I followed him. I could scarcely keep from shouting aloud I felt so full and had I given away to my feelings I believe I should have spoken in tongues, whether it would have been German or not I do not know. The [word missing] was very pleasant to and from the meetings. The Saints were much pleased to see us.

4 October 1862 • Saturday

Saturday, Oct. 4th. We started at 10.5 a.m. for Romanshorn, passing through Winterthur, Frauenfeld and Weinfeld. We reached at Romanshorn at 12 M. We had to wait for the steamer to take us to Constance and while we waited we went out on a pier which ran out into Lake Constance (Boden-See) and had a very fine view of the Lake and surrounding country. There were several towns on the other side of the Lake which were plain to be seen. There were very high, towering mountains in sight, some of them covered with snow. The territories of Switzerland, Austria, Bavaria, Wurtemburg and Baden all border on this lake and can all be seen from the pier on which we stood at Romanshorn. The Lake is a beautiful body of water of about 42 miles long and 15 miles long <wide>. The water is beautifully clear and we could see hundreds of fish swimming in its depths. We took steamer at 2½ p.m for Constance so famous for the trial and condemnation of John Huss, the Reformer, before its Council, and his place of martyrdom by burning in 1415. “Today,” said he, “you will fry a goose, but a hundred years hence you not fry a swan.” The coming of Luther and his success in preaching the Reformation fulfilled this prophecy. He used a Swan in his seal in 1515 &c. We reached Constance at 3 p.m. and soon after started in a skiff for Landschlacht about 4 or 5 miles distant. Six of us in the skiff with the boy who had it in charge made a very heavy load and after proceeding about halfway the wind began to blow so strongly that we thought it better to land and go afoot the remainder of the distance. We had considerable amusement while on the lake. Elizabeth had never been so long in a small boat on the water before and she was quite averse to our leaving the shore very far. I should think that a storm on Lake Constance would be very dangerous. The winds would come down from the mountains with fearful violence. A Russian or English Princess, (Bro. Huber could not say which) was caught in a severe storm on the lake and made a vow to build a convent on the first spot where she would put her foot on land. She landed a little distance from where we deemed it expedient to put ashore and fulfilled her vow by building a convent. The little place where we got ashore was called Bottighofen. It is a very fine country this. Fruit trees in abundance and vines without end. Everything to delight and gladden the eye; but man who, through his tyranny, oppression & unkindness to his fellow man, binds heavy burdens upon him and causes misery and mourning to prevail. We stopped at “Gasthaus” (Hotel) Zur Sonne,” a very nice, quiet inn by the roadside with everything in and about the house delightfully clean and neat. Our rooms were very comfortable and our bedding sweet and beautyfully white. I admire the style of arranging for sleeping on the continent at the Hotels. They have no double beds. Every person, even husband and wife, sleep separately. Their bedsteads are made about three feet wide, affording plenty of room for the largest person to sleep. Light feather beds are always used, with a sheet, and, perhaps, a blanket and a quilt for covering — an arrangement I do not like, as I never fail to sweat profusely under them after I get to sleep. We visited a relative of Bro. Huber’s and president of the branch here, Bro. Näglis, after supper.

5 October 1862 • Sunday

Sunday, Oct. 5th. “Oh, these quiet country-houses how delightful they are,” was my thought when I arose and looked out of the window this morning. A Sabbath-like stillness pervaded and all nature seemed in repose. The Lake, close by, lay placidly glimmering in the bright rays of the morning sun. Not a breath of air disturbed the leaves of the fruit trees and vines which extended as far as the eye could reach. There was not a sound to be heard in the house or outside, but the occasional cawing of a crow. We went down to Bro. Näglis to meeting at 1/2 past 10. A.M. The house was crowded, about 65 Saints being present. Many had come from a distance, some as far as 36 miles. After singing and prayer the Sacrament was administered. Apple wine, or, as we would call it, sweet cider was administered. Bro. John L. Smith then made a few remarks and I followed, Bro. Schettler interpreting as I spoke. It is seldom that I have felt more melted in my feelings than I did today. The Spirit was powerfully present and I was much blessed in speaking and we rejoiced much together, nearly all shedding tears of joy. Bro. Jesse N. Smith followed and spoke well. We had an intermission of half an hour and met again. I spoke again, followed by Brothers Schettler and John L. Smith in a few remarks. The Saints parted with us with considerable exhibition of feeling some of them shedding tears. In the evening I wrote a letter to Bro. C. W. West, Liverpool, and to Bro. W. W. Cluff, to send by Bro. Jesse N. Smith to Copenhagen.

6 October 1862 • Monday

Monday, Oct. 6th 1862. The day of our Semi-annual Conference. May the Saints be blessed to-day in every land where they assemble themselves together. We ate breakfast and prepared to start for Constance. The charged us forty francs ($7.80) for the time we were with them, which we thought very reasonable. We had five beds, three in our large room and two in another, and twenty-four meals. They gave us a very kindly farewell at parting. I think our visit here will do good in more ways than one. Knowing us to be Latter-day Saints and respectably dressed and deporting ourselves with propriety, they will look upon the Saints here with more respect for it is too much the case with mankind that they despise those who have no friends, and vice versa. We embarked on a large skiff at Bro. Jacob Näglis, the President of the Branch, and he and his eldest daughter, Margaretta, with Bro. Huber as steersman, rowed us to Constance. She started without any bonnet or other covering for her head <than> a shawl, and rowed in the warm sun as strongly as her father. She laughed at the idea of being relieved at the oar by one of us. The Lake was very smooth and the trip was a very pleasant one, occupying about 1½ hours. This people, and indeed all the Continental people among whom I have travelled since leaving England are much more polite than the English or Americans. They call them boors because of their neglect of what they view as the ordinary requirements of politeness. Every gentleman who meets a friend of either gender lifts his hat and salutes him or her. In Switzerland, in the country places, every one you meet salutes you, and, if a man, he touches or removes his hat and you return the compliment, no matter how great the difference in rank, the fine gentleman removes his hat to salute the laboring man or the servant. In some places <instances> I think it a bore; but in others I think if it were done with a real feeling of kindness it would be very appropriate. I was struck by the courtesy evinced by the common people one towards another. We met a fisherman coming out of Constance as we were going in an acquaintance of Bro. Nägli’s and Huber’s though he was scarcely within hailing distance when he recognized them he lifted his hat in token of recognition and to salute them and they did the same to him in return. Upon our arrival in Constance we visited the house in which John Huss was tried before the Council. It was built in 1386. There were a great many antiquities there, among the rest three wax figures, one representing Huss, another his friend Jerome of Prague and another a friar who was zealous in exhorting him to abjure his “heresy,” on a platform occupying the exact spot where the trial occurred. There were two chairs one belonging to king Sigismund and the other to the Pope (Martin 5th.) The small prison in which he was kept for three months was also shown. This was about the length of a man or a foot longer and about three feet wide. They had a portrait of Martin Luther and his wife and of Columbus, which were said to be authentic. The latter has a very fine determined countenanc[e.] He is bareheaded and has a tiger or leopard skin thrown over his shoulders. His face is shaved. We saw a very fine collection of birds of kinds obtained on Lake Constance and its borders. There was an illuminated Mass book of Pope Martin’s shown us, dating as far back as 1402, and also a printed and illustrated copy of the Bible printed in 1491. We walked out to the place where Huss was burned about ten minutes walk outside of the town gates. A monument is now being built by subscription on the spot. There was some doubt, Bro. Huber told us, about the exact spot; but a gardener in working a piece of ground came upon a large stone and a stake and manacles and charred human bones which were the means of locating the exact spot devoted to this cruel and accursed practice of stifling freedom of conscience. We embarked on the Jura steamer at 1 P.M. for Schaffhausen. The river Rhine makes its egress from Lake Constance close by Constance. They have built a very fine Railway bridge across it and the line will soon be open to Schaffhausen. Our steamer lowered her pipe in passing under. We soon came into the “Unter See” or Lower Lake a fine sheet of water with low banks. We had a fine sail to Schaffhausen, a very old town, sit <with> a picturesque situation on the Rhine. Here navigation ceases for some distance as the rapids of the Rhine commence. We took train at Schaffhausen for Zurich at 5.10 p.m. and arrived there at 7.15 P.M. In leaving Schaffhausen we had several beautiful views of the Rhine; but particularly in crossing the Rhine stream on the railway bridge at Rhine-fels above the falls. Here the Rhine falls about 70 feet forming a most grand and beautiful waterfall. After we crossed the Railway came close to the edge of the bluffs which here made a curve giving us a very fine view of the falls from below, so that we saw it to great advantage from above and below. We put up at the Stork Hotel at Zurich and after leaving Elizabeth there we went to meeting in the suburbs and found about 70 or 80 Saints present. The meeting had commenced. Bro. John L. Smith made a few remarks and I followed speaking for about an hour. The room was very close and the want of fresh air was sensibly felt. After meeting we laid hands on two sick women.

7 October 1862 • Tuesday

Tuesday, Oct. 7th. We arose early this morning and the brethren: John L. Smith, P. A. Schettler John Huber, and myself went to the R’way Station to see Bro. Jesse N. Smith start on his return to Copenhagen. He started at 6. A.M. It was with regret I parted with him. We had been together daily for little more than the four past weeks and the intercourse had been exceedingly pleasant. He is a very intelligent, interesting companion, whose views, for so young a man, are broad and comprehensive and who, if he lives, will yet be an exceedingly useful man in the Kingdom of God. We left Zurich about 10 a.m. As we were leaving Sister Forrer’s, the wife of the President of the Branch, came to the Station with her little boy bringing Elizabeth a small basket of very fine pears and grapes. We reached Bienne or Biel about 2.15 p.m. and took dinner and then took coach at 3½ p.m. for St. Imier. The scenery on this road for several miles was of the most splendid description. We ascended gradually on a road cut out of the side of a mountain for about a mile. The road then ran through a Canyon resembling some of the most rugged and picturesque parts of Echo Kanyon. A fine new stone bridge is thrown across the stream in one place at a considerable height above the water. It is a single arch and rests at each end on the solid rocks which rise precipitously from the creek below. The road passes through two tunnels which are cut through the points of the mountains[.] The water comes pouring down the rocks in one place on an inclined plane at a very rapid rate and makes a beautiful appearance. We stopped for a few minutes at Sonceboz and changed horses. We reached St. Imier at 6.30 p.m. and put up at the Crown Hotel. Bro. John T. Gerber, who came from the Valley when I did, met us here. He is in good health. We went to meeting and met with about 40 Saints and some 5 or 6 strangers. Some of the Saints had travelled about 27 miles, a good part of the way on foot, to be at the meeting and had to return again tonight to be at their work in the morning. Of course, where such faith and zeal are manifested to meet with the servants of the Lord and to hear His word the Spirit will most surely be poured out. We had an excellent meeting and the Saints rejoiced.

8 October 1862 • Wednesday

Wednesday, Oct. 8th. We started this morning at about 10 a.m. for Biel and reached there in time for the train which leaves there at 1.40 p.m. for Berne. We stopped for 1/2 an hour at Sonceboz to change horses on our way from St. Imier. At Berne, which place we reached at 3.30 p.m., we engaged a carriage to take us to Steffisburg where we had to meet with the Saints. There was no train leaving until late in the evening — too late to enable us to keep our appointment. We had a very pleasant ride and reached there about 7 p.m. We ate supper and then repaired to the house where the Saints were assembled waiting for us. I spoke to the people, of whom there upwards of 60 present, and was blessed with the Spirit. We had an excellent meeting. Some of these had come as far as 25 miles to be with us.

9 October 1862 • Thursday

Thursday, Oct. 9th. We arose early this morning and after breakfast started on foot for Thun about 3 miles distant where we took the cars for Berne at 8 A.M. All along the roadsides in this part cherry trees are planted. We had some splendid scenery to-day, and from Berne to Friburg the road was newly made and through a mountainous district of country. The labor of building a road through such a country has been extraordinary. Several deep valleys and ravines had been bridged over at great labor and expense. The first view of Lake Geneva which we obtained was upon emerging from a tunnel a few miles before reaching Lausanne. It was a most splendid sight. The lake, the mountains, the terraced hill sides covered with grapes, with the peasantry in their picturesque costumes busily engaged in gathering grapes, all made a scene that to us was exceedingly beautiful and will not soon be forgotten. We were at Berne about two hours and in the time we visited the Federal Capitol and the Minster. The first building is very fine and occupies a most commanding position on the summit of a hill at the foot of which the River Aare flows. The prospect from the front of the Capitol is very fine. The building itself is quite new having been finished about seven years and cost 2,000,000, francs. It is built of sandstone of a beautiful color and fine finish. We were shown into the Hall where the National Assembly meets. There were 144 seats for members. They occupied almost the entire floor except a small space in front opposite the President’s chair and were ranged in a semi circle. The President’s chair was elevated and a chair stood on his right for the Vice President and another on his left for the Chancellor. At the side of each of them the secretaries sat. The Chamber was beautiful but more beautiful in its republican simplicity and its fitness than in the elegance of its adornments. The furniture was of wood resembling black walnut in color. Every member had a desk in front of his seat. The galleries for the public occupied the sides of the Chamber. The figures of science, agriculture, justice and Diplomacy were painted on the wall on each side of Liberty which occupied the central position immediately above the President’s chair. The ceiling had four figures painted upon it in a circle around a fine chandelier which was suspended from the center of the ceiling. They represent the four principal rivers of Switzerland: the Rhine, the Limat, the Aare and the Rhone. The room occupied by the body corresponding to our Senate (called in German Standerath) was also a plain room. There were 44 seats and desks: for two members from every Canton. They were of oak. The window was of colored glass and each pane had on it the coat of arms of a Canton. There were also the years 1308 and 1848 on the top of the window in the archway. The first, the year when the Confederation was first formed and the latter when the new Confederation was made. We were shown the Federal Council Chamber where he and six Councillors held their meetings. His seat was at the end in the centre and immediately in front of him were two desks for secretaries. The six Councillors sat fronting each other on each side of the room. We were also shown into his sitting room and the audience chamber. They were fitted up in good style; but were yet plain. There was a painting in each of the two last rooms. One was illustrative of an ancient history: the wife of Stauffacher firing him to redress his own and country’s wrongs — a most beautiful and expressive painting. He a noble looking man sitting on a chair with knitted brows and brooding over the recital of his wife who stands by his side (with two children clinging to her) <with> inflamed and indignant countenance and pointing in the direction of some Austrians on horseback who were riding off in the distance. The other was a painting of Abraham, sending off Hagar and Ishmael. The Minster tower which we ascended is about 260 feet high and from it we obtained a fine view of the city Berne is built on a peninsula formed by a bend of the river Aare, the river flowing almost around it. The largest bell in this Minster weighs 26,700 lbs; its tongue weighs 730 lbs. The bell itself is 25½ feet in circumference and is 8 inches thick. When rung in cold weather it can be heard 18 miles; it takes 8 men to ring it. There is a small bell in this minster which they painted black when Napoleon was here and to that they attributed its escape from the melting pot as the principal metal in its composition is silver and he had a hankering for bells &c of that metal. The bear is much valued by the people of Berne. They have adopted that animal as their crest and they keep a number of bears in a pit close to the edge of the city across the bridge. We remained at Lausanne about one hour and then took cars for Geneva which city we reached about 6.30 p.m. We were met at the Station by three of the brethren: Jacque Portmann, President of the Branch, Matthias Schuller and Conrad Schweizer. We went to Bro. Portmann’s to supper of which we partook heartily. They had boiled chestnuts as a vegetable in place of potatoes, the first time I ever ate anything of the kind and prepared in that manner and I enjoyed them much. We slept at Bro. John L. Smith’s office. Since we left Liverpool we have been where Danish, Dutch and German have been spoken, now we have come to where French is universally spoken.

10 October 1862 • Friday

Friday, Oct. 10th. 1862. Breakfasted with Sister Graunauer in whose house the Office is situated. She is a very fine, kind, old lady. Took dinner and tea at Bro. Schweiger’s. Strolled around the city. In the evening attended meeting of the Saints. As there were both Germans and French present; both languages had to be spoken. I spoke in English, Bro. Schettler interpreted in German and Bro. Portmann who understood German and French interpreted from Bro. Schettler into French. We enjoyed our meeting very much. Such a time of interpreting I guess had seldom been witnessed.

11 October 1862 • Saturday

Saturday, Oct. 11th. Breakfasted with Sister Graunauer. Took dinner at Bro. and Sis. Geissler’s and supper with Bro. Schuller at Bro. Portmann’s house. We strolled through the town in the afternoon.

12 October 1862 • Sunday

Sunday, 12th. Ate breakfast at the office again; ate dinner with Bro. & Sis. Lang[.] They drink claret or red wine, the pure juice of the grape here as commonly as water is drank with us. We attended meeting with the Saints this morning at 10 a.m. There were about 34 persons met with us this morning, and we had an excellent meeting. I spoke in English, which Bro. Schettler interpreted in German and Bro. Portmann from German into French. My remarks extended to 1½ hours and I touched on many principles. Sister Geisler prepared some provisions for us to take with us. Administered to several sick people. I felt sad at parting with the brethren. We started at 3.50 p.m. for Paris. We reached Bellegarde (on the line and the place of the French customs) at about 5 p.m. Our baggage was examined in a very gentlemanly manner; but my passport had not the visa of the French Minister or Consul in Geneva and was not as it should be. My ignorance of French was a help to me I expect. They could not make any explanations to me or I to them and after closely comparing my appearance with the description [on?] my passport they let me pass. As I had not been asked for my passport from the time of leaving England until I reached this place[,] I had almost forgotten that such a thing was needed and I had understood that those speaking the English language were not required to exhibit passports on entering French territory and this had made me careless about getting my passport visa-ed.

13 October 1862 • Monday

Monday, Oct. 13th. Reached Paris at about 6.30 A.M. and was met at the Station by Bro. L. A. Bertrand. He took us to a cheap Hotel — the Hotel du Havre. I wrote to Bro’s West, Bull, Bramall and De la Mare. Went out a little in the afternoon and visited the Church of the Madaline and the Place Vendome where stands a monument erected by Napoleon 1st. The total elevation of the pillar is 135 feet and the diameter of the shaft is 12 feet. The pedastal and shaft are of stone covered with bronze basreliefs, cast out of 1200 pieces of Russian and Austrian Cannon, and representing the victories of the French army. The basreliefs of the shaft &c. follow a spiral direction to the capital, and display, in chronological order, the principal actions, from the departure of the troops from Boulogne to the battle of Austerlitz. The figures, said to be 2,000 in number, are three feet high; the length of the scroll 840 feet; a spiral thread divides the lines, and bears inscriptions of the actions represented. The whole of the work was executed by 31 sculptors. The statue of Napoleon 1st. surmounts the whole.

14 October 1862 • Tuesday

Tuesday, Oct. 14th. Visited Place de la Concorde. This Place forms a beautiful link between the Tuileries and the Champs Elysees. On the North are two palaces: one is the residence of the Minister of Marine and the other is inhabited by private families. Between them is the Rue Royale at the end of which is seen the Madeleine. To the South are the Pont de la Concorde and the Legislative Palace, behind which is seen towering the dome of the Invalides. There are two very fine fountains in the square between which is erected the obelisk of Luxor. This relic of ancient Egypt is one of the two obelisks, that stood in front of the great temple of Thebes, the modern Luxor, where they were erected, 1550 years before Christ, by Rhamses 3rd., of the 18th Egyptian dynasty, better known in history as the great Sesostris. [interlined in red pencil: < x 69>] These two monoliths were given by Mehemet Ali, Viceroy of the Egypt, to the French government, but only one was removed. The height of this monolith is 72 feet 3 inches; its greatest width at the base 7 feet 6 inches; at the top 5 feet 4 inches; its weight is 500,000 pounds. This obelisk is formed of the finest red syenite, and is covered on each face with three lines of heiroglyphic inscriptions, said to be commemorative of Sesostris; the middle lines being the most deeply cut and carefully finished. The operation of transporting this monolith to France occupied three years (1831-33). A vessel was constructed at Toulon for the purpose. The entire cost of removal and erection was about two millions of francs—about 380,000 $. There are also eight colossal statues placed at intervals around the Square or Place. They represent the chief provincial cities. In this Square was erected the infamous guillotine which caused so much blood to flow during the revolution and reign of terror. Here Louis 16th, his Queen, his sister, the Duke of Orleans, Charlotte Corday, Danton Brissot, Robespierre and hundreds of other people of note perished by the guillotine. From Jan. 21, 1793, to May 3, 1795, more than 2800 persons were executed here. Walked through the garden of the Tuileries and afterwards visited several places of note, churches &c. and at 12 M. went through the Museum of the Louvre. From a window of this palace fronting the river Seine, which Bro. Bertrand showed us, Charles 9th fired upon the Protestants who were running to escape the massacre of St. Bartholomew. To describe all we saw here would require a book. The Louvre is being joined to the Tuileries by Louis Napoleon and they form the finest range of buildings I ever saw. The paintings particularly in the Louvre are very fine —none but the works of deceased artists being admitted. We saw the sceptre of Charlemagne, his sword and spurs, his crown and his prayer book, dated 780; a bible dated 850 which belonged to Charles the Bald. We also saw a great many articles which belonged to Napoleon 1st. His Camp bed, his saddle, sword, gloves, spurs &c; his grey overcoat, his hats, his watch and pocket handkerchief which he used on his death bed and many other things which he used. We walked through the Rue de Rivoli, one of the, if not the finest streets in Paris. It runs alongside of the Tuileries and Louvre and is two miles in length. The cost of constructing this street, begun in 1802, and continued in 1849 and the following years was 120 millions of francs, 800 houses in some of the darkest, filthiest streets in the city which were in this vicinity being pulled down for the purpose. We visited a family of Saints by the name of Metzger and stopped several hours there; then called upon a German family who are friendly to the work.

15 October 1862 • Wednesday

Wednesday, Oct. 15th. Elizabeth had her likeness taken for her locket this morning. Afterwards went to the Hotel de Ville; but it was not the day for it to be seen. From there to the Cathedral of Notre Dame; but it was undergoing repairs and could not be seen. We then visited the Pantheon or Church of St. Genevieve — a very splendid building, and a beautiful public library close by called by the same name. Then we went to the Luxemburg Palace. The Throne Saloon in this palace is most magnificent, being gorgeously gilt and sculptured. The throne occupies the central wall to the right and is decorated with an unsparing <hand>. It stands on a platform ascended by four steps, the whole profusely carved and gilt. This saloon has many splendid paintings on the walls and ceilings of scenes from French history and is most dazzling in its appearance. Here the Senate in the time of the First Empire, when the Emperor presided, sat. From this we went into the elegant Galerie des Bustes which is filled with busts of the great generals and statesmen of the First Empire. Thence we went into the Salle du Senate or Senate Chamber. This chamber is semi-circular, ninety-two feet in diameter and covered by a hemi-spherical vault. In a semi-circular recess are the seats of the President and Secretaries, approached by steps. The Reporters’ desks, are in front of the President’s seat and fronting the seats of the Senators, who are at present 165 in number. There are seven seats also there for the Ministers without portfolio. Prince Napoleon’s (Jerome) seat is the first of the bottom row, on the right, facing the President; next follow those of the Cardinals and Marshals. The chairs of the Senators then rise gradually to the back, all fronting the President’s desk. When a Senator wishes to make a motion he can do so from his seat; but an oration has to be delivered from the tribune, the corner desk of the bottom row of seats and the opposite side from that of Prince Napoleon’s[.] There is a gallery for spectators; but the sittings are not public. We visited the Cabinet de l’Empereur — the Emperor’s sitting room — the room for his guards — the chambers of Maria de Medicis. Her sleeping chamber is very splendid. The chairs here are those used at the coronation of Napoleon. In the case of the marriage of Senators or their daughters, the parties meet in this room to sign the Contract. We then visited the Chapel of the Palace. The garden of the Palace is said to be the best in Paris and is very beautiful. From the Luxembourg we called upon M. Lerousseau a disciple of Fourier, an educated, wealthy man and favorable to the work. And then went to Bro. And Sister Fonteneau where we stayed to dinner. They treated us with great kindness. Leaving Sister C. there to rest, Bro. Bertrand and I called upon several Saints.

16 October 1862 • Thursday

Thursday, Oct. 16th. The weather, which since our arrival has been very warm, is cool to-day. Went to the Arc de Triomphe de l’Etoile. It consists of a vast central arch, 90 feet in height by 45 feet in width, over which rises a bold entablature and an attic. There is also a transversal arch, 57 feet high and 25 feet wide. The total height of the structure is 152 feet; its breadth and depth are 137 feet and 68 feet respectively. It is much adorned with figures illustrative of some great victory, and has the names of 96 victories and the names of all the generals of note inscribed upon it. Its cost was 10,432,800 francs, or $1,982,232. The idea of this monument originated with Napoleon 1st and the first stone was laid in 1806. It was not completed until 1836. The view from the platform at the top, which is reached by 272 steps, of Paris and its environs is most magnificent. From this place twelve splendid avenues branch out in different directions. From this we went to the Hotel des Invalides — an asylum for aged and wounded soldiers. We visited its chapel. There are hundreds of banners hanging here that have been captured by the French army. In the time of Napoleon about 3000 flags filled the nave; but on the evening before the entry of the allied armies into Paris, March 31, 1814. The Duke de Feltre, Minister of War, by order of Joseph Bonaparte, commanded them to be burnt and the sword of Frederick the Great, which was preserved here, to be broken. The orders to that effect were given three times before they were obeyed. We then visited the tomb of Napoleon which is under the dome of the Invalides — a most sumptuous work, its total height, including the lantern, with a gilt spire, globe and cross, is 323 feet. The crypt which contains his tomb is only visible from the gallery above. The tomb consists of an immense monolith of porphyry, weighing 135,000 lbs., and brought from Lake Onega in Finland at a cost of 140,000 francs. It was polished by a powerful stream- engine. It covers the sarcophagus also of a single block, 12 feet long and 6 feet in breadth, resting upon two plinths, which stand on a block of green granite brought from the Vosges. The total height is 13 ½ feet. The whole place is beautifully light and airy. Fine paintings occupy the sides of the dome. An altar here is very splendid and is reached by steps. We then went to the Palace of the Legislative Body. We passed through the Salle des Distributions, where the Deputies receive the reports of Committees, motions of the Chamber &c. A plain room with a beautifully painted ceiling. The Legislative Hall, formerly the chamber of Deputies, is a semi-circular hall. The President’s chair is situated in the center of the axis of the semi-circle, around which rise in gradation 500 seats to the height of the basement which supports the columns, and inside of which is the spectator’s gallery. There are at present only 261 Deputies and each one has a desk to himself. The ministers without a portfolio, who defend the policy of the government in the debate on the address, or the Commissioners who support the bills sent to Chambers by the Ministers, have their seats, six in number, facing the Chamber and before the President’s desk. It is a hall well adapted doubtless for speaking in; but otherwise I do not like it near so well as I do our Senate and Representative Chambers at Washington. Returned to the Hotel for dinner and leaving Elizabeth to rest Bro. Bertrand and I went to the other side of the city to visit some families of the Saints. We passed through the Jardin des Plants where I saw the Hippopotamus for the first time. There are two of them here. We also saw a cedar of Lebanon — the first seen in France. It was planted here in 1735. It now measures 11 feet in circumference at 6 ft from the ground. It’s branches make a fine shade; but the trunk is not towering as I expected to see it. The branches sprout out at about 12 or 14 ft from the base.

17 October 1862 • Friday

Friday, Oct. 17th. A stormy day. We started at 10½ a.m. for the palace of Versailles. This most stupendous and magnificent of palaces was commenced in 1664, though some royal buildings had occupied its site as early as 1624. Thirty thousand soldiers were more than once employed on the works. Water had to be brought a great distance to supply the reservoirs and fountains. Beyond the gardens there was another enclosure, called the Little Park, four leagues in circuit; and beyond this still was the third enclosure, the Great Park, of 20 leagues, and including numerous villages. The expense of all these undertakings amounted to 250 millions of dollars. At the time of the revolution the palace was devastated. The estimated expense of restoring it, under Napoleon, was, 50 Millions of francs, or <$>9, 500,000; he limited the expenditure, however, to 6 millions of francs. Louis Phillippe, after adding a new pile of buildings, repaired and harmonized different parts of the palace at a cost of 15 millions of francs. The guide who showed us thro’ the rooms — M. Marchand, nearly 80 years old, and an old servant of the first Emperor —told us, after we had gone through, that we had walked nearly six miles. Such a profusion of pictures as we saw would be tiresome to enumerate. They were the works of masters in their art; but the majority of them were illustrative of battles — brilliant descriptions of hellish carnage, where man’s ferocity and success in destroying his fellowman, to gratify the lust of power and carry out the ambitious projects of Kings, is held up to view as glory. The sight was sickening, and the contemplation of such pictures must be simply revolting to every person of reflection and feeling. The general effect of the Grand Apartments are gorgeous. One room measured 239 ft in length, 35 ft. in width, <and> 43 ft in height. It is lighted by 17 large arched windows, which correspond with arches on the opposite wall, filled with mirrors. From the balcony of the bedchamber of Louis 14th (the Grand Monarch) Louis 16 attended by the Queen and his children, addressed the infuriated mob who came to tear him from his palace on the 6th Oct., 1789. The bed on which Louis 14th died — magnificent piece of workmanship — still stands here and has not been slept on since that time. This apartment is very grand. We were shown the likenesses of George Washington and several American Presidents and Statesmen. The gallery of the Kings of France, Contains 71 Kings of France from Pharamond down to Louis Phillipe. We returned to Paris and went to dinner at Bro. Bertrand’s. His wife and two sons —Aristides and Francis; one 14, the other 12 years of age are not in the Church. She treated us very kindly. I received a telegram from Bro. De la Mare, Jersey, informing me what route to take and that he would meet me.

Paris is a most magnificent city, superior to what I had supposed it was. Its Boulevards, many of which have been opened under the present Emperor are most splendid streets, unrivalled perhaps in the world. Paris appears to be a city where most of the people seek only for pleasure, that kind which is derived from gaiety and pleasing sights and sounds. All is glitter and show, and amusements abound and are probably patronized to an extent unknown elsewhere. Home — as we understand the word in English — has no equivalent in the French language, and I am of the opinion that home-comfort is as little understood and known as the word itself. Public buildings — Churches and palaces — are remarkable for their abundance and splendor. To build these has cost immense sums, and burdens have been bound upon the people which they groaned under for centuries until they arose in their might and cast off the yoke and revelled for awhile in the exercise of a liberty to which they were unaccustomed, and which in their hands became a hideous tyranny from which the people of other lands shrank back with horror and affright. Their acts, done under the name of liberty brought liberty into contempt and after the first shock of the uprising had passed, strengthened tyrants by giving them arguments to prove how unsafe was power when left in the hands of the people.

18 October 1862 • Saturday

Saturday, Oct. 18th, 1862. Started this morning at 8. o’clock, Bro. Bertrand accompanying us to the Station. We booked for St. Lo where we expected to take diligence for Granville and thence by steamer to Jersey. It rained today. We passed through several towns and had to stop at Caen about two hours to change carriages. We arrived at St. Lo about 8 p.m. and took diligence to Granville which place we reached at 4 a.m. on [blank]

19 October 1862 • Sunday

Sunday, Oct. 19th. Not being able to speak French and understand it when spoken was a cause of anxiety to me in travelling. We got along, however, very well. At St. Lo I was able to get my name down the first and consequently had the choice of seats. My knowledge of French when written I found of great service to me, as when at a loss to understand an explanation I requested it to be written, and I was also able to write such questions as I wished to ask to obtain needed information. We were disappointed on reaching St. Lo at not meeting Bro. De-la-Mare who in his telegram had led me to expect he would be there when we arrived. We learned on our arrival at Granville that the steamer which should have arrived here on Friday to leave again to-day had been detained at Jersey by bad weather and he had been therefore prevented from crossing. This was a great disappointment to me. To-day Conference was to be held at Jersey and I ought to be there; but this storm would prevent. Stopped at the Hotel du Nord. Went to bed until breakfast time and then walked out round the town.

19, 20, 21, and 22 October 1862 • Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday

Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday. The storm continued with but little intermission during these days. The suspense was almost intolerable. I thought of trying to make the best of our way to Havre and thence to England; but I learned from the papers that the storm raged there also; if I went there <I> might be only at the expense of going and not gain anything by doing so.

24 October 1862 • Friday

Friday, Oct. 24th. The storm subsided somewhat and in the evening the steamer came across bringing Bro’s Dela Mare and Sloan, the latter having come from Liverpool to Jersey the Saturday previous.

25 October 1862 • Saturday

Saturday, 25th. Fine day. The Steamer is loading and unloading.

26 October 1862 • Sunday

Sunday. 26. The wind commenced to blow strongly again last night. We arose very early and packed everything and hurried down to the boat; but after getting on board and waiting some time we were informed that it was too rough for her to sail to-day. Another long, tedious day.

27 October 1862 • Monday

Monday, 27th. We started this morning at 8. o’clock and reached St. Helens at about noon. But oh! How wretchedly seasick Elizabeth and I were! I was the first on board who was sick; but before we reached few escaped. It was exceedingly rough and the little steamer pitched around lively. Bro. De la Mare took us up to Mr. De la Perrelles, the man of whom he rents the meeting room for the Saints. He and his wife are not in the Church, but are very kind and have a bed and room at our disposal while we stay. Mrs. De la Perrelle made us some tea when we arrived; but I continued so sick that we had to go to bed for an hour or two. Went out to tea to Sister Murphy’s and called upon Bro. De la Mare’s folks; they are not in the church; but treat him very kindly, giving him a home. Met Bro. John Marrett who arrived from the Valley this last summer on a mission. Met with the Priesthood in the evening and gave them instructions. Took supper at Bro. Harmon’s.

28 October 1862 • Tuesday

Tuesday, Oct 28th. Went to breakfast at Sister Quaru’s. She has two daughters and a son. About noon we started with a number of Saints in a carriage provided by Bro. De la Mare to ride around a portion of the island. We visited a Castle called Mount Orgueil, a very ancient pile, a portion said to have been erected in the times of the Romans. We also visited a Druid altar. It was formed by ten rough unhewn stones being erected in a circle on which an immense rather flat rough stone, probably 60 tons weight, is placed. The tops of the upright stones are about five feet from the surface of the ground. There are the remains of a mound of which the altar is the centre. It occupies a very commanding position overlooking a beautiful bay. This island is very beautiful and very fertile, fruits grains and esculents grow very finely and to great perfection. We went to tea in the midst of a terrific rain-storm, to Bro. De la Mare’s fathers and had a very pleasant evening. Had meeting in the evening with the Saints, many of whom were present, and had excellent liberty in speaking to them. Went to supper at Bro. Harmon’s.

29 October 1862 • Wednesday

Wednesday. Oct. 29th. Arose early and breakfasted at Sistr. Quarus. Bro. De la Mare took us down to the steamer Southampton which was to sail for Southampton at 7 a.m. Took leave of Bro. De la Mare with many good feelings to him for his kindness and attentions towards us. I secured Elizabeth a good berth in the ladies’ cabin and then went and laid down myself for fear of sickness. The voyage was quite a pleasant one and I was not any sea-sick. Elizabeth suffered somewhat from it. We landed at 7½ P.M. and was met by Bro. Bramall and Bro. Marshbank at the Wharf. We went to St. Mary’s Cottage, the house rented by the Church, to stop. We had an excellent meeting with the Saints. I spoke and was blessed with much freedom. Had our feet washed by Sister [blank]

30 October 1862 • Thursday

Thursday, Oct. 30th. Started at 7 A.M. for London, Bro’s Bramall and Marshbank accompanying us to the Station. We reached London at 9.45 A.M. and was met at the station by Bro. Staines and <S.> H B. Smith. Bro. Staines took us too in a cab to King’s Cross Station where we took cars for Bedford and while waiting for them he took us to breakfast. We reached Bedford at 12.30 M. We went to Bro. Pembrokes[.] Bro’s Bull and Brigham, Jr. arrived about 1/2, an hour after. We spent a very pleasant afternoon together. In the evening we took the cars for Cambridge, being joined on the way by Elder Geo. Cooper. We were met at the Station by Bro. Larkin, President of the Branch. We went to his house, where we met Bro’s Bigler and Bentley, and stopped there all the time we were in Cambridge.

31 October 1862 • Friday

Friday, Oct. 31st. Went round town to-day, (after writing letters to Bro’s John L. Smith and De la . Mare) and saw one of the colleges. We saw a number of interesting articles. In the evening we had a tea party at which Bro’s Staines, Brigham, Jun’r, and myself spoke. The meeting was an excellent one, a good spirit prevailing.

Footnotes

  1. [1]End of daybook.