April 1901

Monday 31^st. [1st] Had priest hood meeting and a meeting for saints in the evening. I spoke at both of them.

Tuesday. April 1^st. [2nd] Went to the art gallery and spent a fine 4 hours in looking at the magnificent paintings. It is a wonderful place second only to the Louvre and I liked it better. There were paintings here by Murillo, Snyder Rembrant Rubens Durer Raphealo and many others of note. Each artist has his own peculiaraties Hoffmans picture of Jesus in the temple and of the Woman who had sinned were lovely. Raphaelo's Modanna [Madonna] is considered the best in the gallery. I hated to leave but all things come to an end and so did our “time” Another picture was a woman dressed in green, their long black hair floating over her shoulders and lifted by the wind, her large dark eyes, that reminded one of night look strangely sad and restless, there is some thing about the whole picture that is fascinating One picture covering the whole side of a room called [p. 108] summer was very good for the style of picture

We left Dresden at 330 arriving at Görlitz at 6 oclock Görlitz is supposed to be situated like Jerusalem There are 80:000 people in it. Some of the streets look like the streets in Berne. We attended meeting in the evening. I slept with some saints.

Next morning went shopping and did some sight seeing. There is a place here laid out just like Jerusalem I didnt go to see it, all of the others did and said it was fine. The oldest church in Germany is here. At 12 oclock we took the train for Breslou Bro [Arnold H.] Schulthess and [James L.] M^cMurrin went down to Hungaria [Hungary] to see the Bros who had been banished and we stayed in Breslou two days.¹ Held one meeting.² Sister [Agnes] Dahlquist met us here. There was nothing of particular interest to see except a big city. I helped Bro Heppler some on his reports, sewed a little etc.

We left Breslau April “5”³ and came to Posen and remained there over night. It is a very pretty little place. We visited to churches and saw there performances. They had an image of the Saviour on a cross and the people crawled up and kissed the hands feet knees and head It made me shudder just to watch them. There were [p. 109] fine streets and parks. In the evening we went for a long walk didn’t get to bed till after 12.

April “6” left Posen for Königsburg had rather a pleasant ride arriving at our destination at about 7 oclock. Were met at the Station by Bro Lloyd Woodruf[f] and Ray Irvine. They took us right to meeting where saints and friends were already assembled, after meeting went to the hotel, had supper and then went to bed.⁴

Sunday April 7. Attended Sunday school and two meetings. Had dinner with some of the saints. The saints and missionaries are all fine people. The Sunday School was like our school at home. The spirit of the whole thing was all that could be desired.

April 8^th. Attended priest hood meeting. In the evening went to a concert I had to speak in both. After the concert Sister Dahlquist and I Bro Irvin and Woodruff went out on the river for a boat ride, we didn’t get in till after 12 then went to the restraunt and had supper (lobster by the way) and arrived at our hotel at two oclock.

*Next morning we left Königsberg for Danzig The river in Konigsberg is fairly lined with boats of all sizes and descriptions some old sailing vessels that look like they belonged to another century [p. 110]

There is an old castle here where Queen Louise lived her room is still as it was even the old piano The bed is there on which she slept when she was in exile in Maimel [Memel] hiding from Napoleon.

Also the room where Frederick I crowned him self King of Prussia. We arrived in Danzig in the evening and after securing our hotel went out for a short walk. While we were at supper some Real Tyrolese People sang a number of songs. They were dressed in the costume of that country with short skirts white blouses with black velvet bodices laced lassed across with blue ribbon.

Next morning we went sightseeing to the markt Platz, to the old gates of the city, along the fish market by the river, to a very large old church etc Came back and changed hotels as the one we were at was very dirty. Went to an elegant hotel and after dinner went to the river again and went for a sail down to the Baltic sea we went out on the shore and climbed up on the rocks while Bro M^cMurrin recited poetry to us. He looked so good and noble as he stood on the rocky shore with his hat in his hand as he recited

There is a pleasure in the pathless woods

There is a rapture on the lonely shore [p. 111]

There is society where none intrudes

By the deep sea and music in its roar;

Love not man the less but nature more

From these our interviews were in I steal

From all I may be or have been before

To mingle with the universe and feel

What I can ne’er express, yet cannot all conceal.⁵

While we were down here it began to rain torrents so we went with more speed than grace back to the boat and were soon on our way back. We didn’t have time for supper but hurried to the meeting. I was called on to speak and had quite a hard struggle to do it but I did the best I could. We came back to the hotel and had supper and then went to bed. Our room was the loveliest little one I have had on the trip I hated to leave it.

Next morning we bid good bye to our friends in Danzig and came on to Stettine.⁶ Bro Woodruff gave me a nice box of candy. They treated us splendidly We arrived in Stettine about 1 oclock and after dinner went to the Bro’s rooms. We were tired so Bro M^cMurrin Sister D. and I stayed at home in the and I laid down and took a nap. Attended meeting in the evening. Slept at one of the saints houses and next morn[p. 112]ing came on to Berlin, came right to the conference house. I took a bath and washed my hair and then went to bed.

Saturday⁷ Went shopping accompanied by Bros Schultess and M^c.Murrin bought me a hat and a dress came home and in the evening the Utah people had a little gathering I recited twice and it about broke my heart to have to do it before so many people who feel so smart. I have dreaded Berlin ever since I started on this trip and it is just like I thought it would be Bro’s Schulthess and M^cMurrin are very kind but I always have felt, when I was with people who were gifted and talented that I was nobody and Im more sure than ever of it now. I ought to be used to the “Idea” in all this time but some times I feel that I would give much to have been talented and pretty like other girls.

Sunday: Attended sunday school and two meetings. I spoke in the after noon.

Monday 15 Was sick in bed all day and discouraged and blue as indigo. I have absolutely no reason for it only I am discontented with my fate I ought to be ashamed to say it when I know that the Lord has given me much more than I deserve. He must [p. 113] feel grieved some times when I repay him with sighs and tears, but some how there is a memory of the past, of what might have been that haunts me still, I can not get away from the thought.

Tues. 16. Stayed home at 196 Frankfurter Allee and wrote my journal. Went for a walk and went for a walk to a concert in the evening given by Utah people four hundred strangers were present Saw [Lucy] Gates sang Fausts Marguriete just lovely

Wed 17. Went to the art gallery, it was not nearly so good as the one in Dresden. There was a fine piece of sculpture work, of a woman who had fallen asleep in front of a crucifix with a baby in her arms it was just lovely. A picture of the flight of Queen Louise from Napoleon. We went and had dinner and then wend <went> along the world renowned street called Unter Den Linden it is 196 ft wide and 3/4 of a mile long there is a large monument of Frederick the Great at the beginning of the street and a large arch at the end on the top of which is a fine bronz chariot and horses which was taken from Germany by the French and recaptured by the Germans in 1814. As we pass through the arch [p. 114] a scene of splendor awaits us. I have seen nothing like it in all my travels. At the right of us was an elegant monument called the Monument of victory In front of us was an elegant forest and to the left is the Seigers Allee a street through the forest with 15 elegant white marble statues on each side. Never was there a sight more beautiful that elegant boulevard with those monuments along each side, the scene was inspiring. It seems to me that I have never seen more beautiful skies than I have seen on this trip. There are 2,000,00 people in Berlin. The streets for the most part are wide and no slums. The houses are about 5 stories high Leipsiger and Fredericker Strasse are the most important business streets. There are both horse and electric cars and buses. Leipsiger Strasse and Freiderick Strasse are the most important business streets in Berlin. On the monument of victory are gilded canons captured by the Germans in three different wars. On the top is a beautiful female figure. The arched gateway at the end of Unter den Lindens is called “Branden berg Thor” The garden on each side of Leegers Allee is called the “Thiergarten” We spent the evening [p. 115] at the conference house.

April 18. We went in the morning to the Mausolem where four monarchs are buried and among them is Queen Louise. The effect of the whole thing is lovely It is kind of a round building and when you first enter there is the statue of an angel in white marble and a blue light is cast over every thing from the dark blue glass windows. In the back are the four white marble coffins with carved figures of the owners on the out side. It makes you feel solemn. Around the mausolem are fine gardens beautiful walks and drives among gorgeous beds of flowers and trees. We passed the botanical gardens but didn’t have time to visit them we visited a fine new church and then went to Sister Cluffs for dinner. We had a lovely dinner and they treated us fine. In the evening we went to Bush’s American circus. It is down by the art gallery. It was very good. Among other things was a pantomime called “The Iron Mask” and one of the scenes represented a deer hunt. The circus ring was made in to a lake and filled with real water, There were mountains with steep passes that looked real too, and the deer chased by men and women jumped in to the water [p. 116] and swam across [to] the others side while the men and women and horses followed. It was thrilling I almost screamed. They also had a fountain made out of this and all of the figures were alive. It was just lovely. We arrived home at 12:30

April 19.⁸ Today Bros [Wilford C.] Nuttall[,] [Joshua P.] Goddard[,] McDonald and my self went out to Potsdam, quite a large city and visited the Home of Frederick the Great. There are two large castles there where he lived and both of them are furnished elegantly. Some of the rooms are silver trimmed and some are gold, there are fine pictures statues etc The houses is all furnished as it was then with fine carpets easy chairs tables sofas etc. We saw the room where Frederick the Great died, he died sitting in a chair by the window and there is a marble representation of him as he was then by the window. We saw the rooms where Queen Wilhelmina of Holland stayed when she visited Germany. In the palace with a great forest around it, that was built to be free from care are many elegant rooms. In one room There are animals carved on the walls representing Vaeultarrs Voltairs character. There are gardens trees flowers fountains etc all around the place for miles. It [p. 117] is something like the Palace at Versailles but not quite so elegant. In the evening we went to the Winter Garten with Bro Coope [W. Adams]. He treated us elegantly It is a restraunt concert hall, and is extremely large The ceiling is dark blue and covered with hundreds of electric lights that look like stars. The walls are painted with pretty pictures, the floor is covered with dark red velvet carpet. Every one sits at a table and while the people eat and drink, the concert goes on. It is sort of a variety show, singing dancing sleight of hand, acrobats etc and was all high class. The people were dressed beautifully. The whole scene was fine. They had a revolving stage so that when ever one part was finished the stage was turned around and was already. After it was over we went to a conditiori [konditorei]⁹ and had chocolate and cake. It was late when we arrived home.

April 20. Came to Hamburg it is a large sea port town. After dinner we went for a boat ride and saw all of the large ships in the harbor. Sisters Gates Cluff and Ramsay with a large number of missionaries were with us. Hamburg is quite a dirty place some thing like Glasgow, not nearly so [p. 118] large of course. There are some lovely lakes in the middle of the city with little steam boats running on them all the time. We went to a place where the Tyrolese mountains were represented and real mountains couldnt be any more natural. they are as large as mountains and painted on some kind of canvass. It was quite remarkable. We did not get home in time to go any where in the evening.

Sunday Apr 21^st. Attended Sunday School and the two conference meetings. They were well attended and a good spirit prevailed. The weather was fine

Monday 22 Attended priesthood meeting, went boat riding on the lake, sat for a while on the esplanade and told jokes, went to the restraunt and had supper then went home and to bed.

Tues. 23 Attended another priesthood meeting, had dinner at one of the saints out in the suburbs of the city, went to a concert given by the Utah people in the evening. It was excellent.

Wed 24. Bros Schulthiss [Schulthess], [Chariton P.] Ferrin, [Alexander] Nibley McDonald M^cMurrin and my self came to Keil where we three latter took the boat for Copenhagen. The day was lovely so we enjoyed the sail very much. We arrived at Copenhagen at 7 o’clock and took a cab for [p. 119] The office, we went almost immediately to our hotel and after supper took a little walk then went to bed.

Apr. 25. Went down to the sea shore the first thing this morning and walked along the esplanade It is a lovely harbor is reminds me of Ayr only there are lots of ships boats (etc?) There is a park and gardens right near the esplanade. We visited Frederick’s Church, and the Kings castle where we saw the soldiers drill and heard the military band. Every day at 12 oclock they go through this same preformance. We went to one of the saints to supper, and after supper I went with one of the girls for a bycycle ride and I can tell you we had a chase for life. The more I told her to go slow as she couldn’t understand me, the faster she went. We rode 9 miles in an hour and I was about given out when we reached home There are three lakes in the middle of the city, they are not very large ones. In the end of one of them is a pleasure pavilian that is quite nice Along the lake is a path with trees on it also a bicycle track a place for horse back riders and carriages It is quite a nice street.

April 26 Went to the baths, then to the art gallery visited Thorvaldsens museum. He is one of the greatest [p. 120] sculptures in the world. Passed the Royal Opera House, the Board of Trade building and the city hall also went to the Tivoli Gardens¹⁰ but they had not yet opened for the season. Spent the evening at the hotel writing letters. There are about 500,000 people in Copenhagen. The L.D.S office is not far from the kings castle at 14 Sankt Pauls Gada The houses are in flats. Some of the Street cars are two stories high. Oster Gada [Østergade] is the principal business street. The country of Denmark is very level and fertil very good for farming. There are some forests many of them are birch. The people for the most part look clean and well to do.

(*April 27)¹¹ In the Art Gallery is the picture of a mormon missionary in a carpenter shop preaching to the family. He is dressed in the style of the country, and standing with his bible open on the back of a chair. A baby is hiding under the table, afraid of him.¹² Some of the winter scenes were pretty. Of course the gallery cannot compare with some in Germany or France but it was fairly good April 27. Left Copenhagen at 10 oclock for Göteborg crossed between the narrowest [p. 121] place between Norway <Denmark> and Sweden from Holsinger to Helsingborg. The latter is the town where Sister Hall was born. It is quite a picturesque little town stretched along the sea. Had a dinner at Halmstad where the train waited 20 minutes. It was the strangest dinner I ever had. In the middle of the room was a big table fairly covered with all kinds of food from soup to dessert. There were stacks of plates and knives and forks on the table too, and every body rushed into the room, grabbed a knife and fork and plate helped them selves to what ever they wanted, then went to a table on the side and ate as fast as they could, then went back and took another plate etc and helped them selves to a second course and third and so on. It don’t matter whether you eat much or little the price is just the same. You don’t speak a word to anyone from the time you go in till you come out again. It looks funny to see men women and children all running around the room helping them selves. Our ride all day was quite uneventful and rather tiresome on account of the heat. Bros Fjelstead [Christian D. Fjeldsted] and Schanky [Anthon L. Skanchy] M^cMurrin and myself were in the party. The two former were some [p. 122] what opposed to lady missionaries and that didn’t tend to make things any more agreeable. We arrived at Göteborg at 7 oclock and were met by President Jensen, who welcomed us very kindly, after going to one to the saints and washing our faces, we went to meeting where I met the elders and saints of that conference. After meeting I went to stay with one of the saints Sister Hägland, three of the missionaries were also staying there. She had quite a nice home on the out skirts of the city. This is also a shipping point and has a fine harbor, there are ships sailing in there from all parts of the world. It is the second city in size in Sweden there are 130,000 people there. There are many beautiful parks in the city and on the out skirts are forests. There are many hills of solid rock in the city. The conference on Sunday April 28 was very good there were three meetings. Before meeting in the morning I went with the Bro’s for a walk in a grave yard close by Sister Häglands then we went to meetings. There were three held and they were very good. I spoke in the morning and evening. We went to Sister Hansens to dinner [p. 123] and after dinner Bro Hansen Bro [Carl H.] Carlquist and I went for a walk to an old fort called the crown it was a round rock building high on a rocky cliff and on the top was a large gold crown in the opposite part of the city is a large building used for the same purpose with a lion on the top of it and is called “The Lion”.

April 29. Attended two priesthood in the forenoon and afternoon, went to Sunday school conference at night I had to speak. All of saints and elders treated me lovely

April 30^th.: Went out sight seeing, the day was beautiful but rather warm. There are 130,000 people in Göteborg It is a great shipping point. We visited some fine parks “The Childrens pleasure park and the “Slotskogen parken [Slottsskogen Park]” or the Palace Park. We also visited the Botanical Gardens. There are some very beautiful residential streets in the city among the finest is the Kings Garden street. We went to Sister Hansens to a birthday dinner. In the evening we went out to the grave yard where they were going to dedicate the graves of two of our missionaries they had just had a beautiful monument erected [p. 124] for them. The ride out was simply delightful. The sun was just setting and it was a glorious sight At the grave yard we all felt sad to stand where two of our noble elders had been laid to rest but our grief was lessened by the thoughts of their reward¹³