March 1901

1 March 1901 • Friday

March 1st.. Were met at the docks by Bro. Sylvester Canon [Sylvester Q. Cannon] President of the Holland mission. It was raining hard so we took a cab to his apartments. Along by the docks there were pretty houses. We took a cab and on the way passed through beautiful parks and the houses looked clean and lovely. After breakfast we went to the office and met the Brothers, then Bro. Canon and Bro Alex[ander] Nibley took us to see the city. We went to a place called the White House where we could get a good view of the city as it was the highest building any where around. The Maas River was just lined with boats, the street cars have no seats on top and are drawn by one “lonely little horse”. There were lots of funny little carts that were drawn by dogs. The people for the most part seem very clean. There are 270 houses thousand people in Rotterdam. We went to the shops and got some little wooden shoes, then to a restraunt and had some pan cakes, sugar and butter, we each ate 24 but they were only big enough for one bite I stayed with a family of saints that night and had great fun trying to make them understand [p. 74] me.

2 March 1901 • Saturday

Sat Mar. 2. Got up at 8 oclock, Bro Canon came for me at 9 and I went with him to the conference house and Bro Nibley and I went to The Haag [Hague], the day was just lovely, we went first to the art gallery, I told Bro N. that I liked pictures that I was familiar with the subjects and just then we came to the picture of some roosters and I said “Oh thats familiar “Cock a doodledo’” then Bro N asked me what the difference was between Uncle Sam and old maid and a rooster. I didn’t know so he said A rooster says Cock a doodle do

Uncle Sam says Yankee Doodle do and

An old maid says Any dude’l do

There were many beautiful pictures, and three that were world renowned, one called Potters Bull and two others by Rembrant called the Virgin and child, and the Disecting Room. from the gallery we went to the Palace in the Woods where the Peace Congress was held. The woman who was queen before Wilhelmina lived here. The Chinese and Japanese rooms were elegant, also the room where the peace congress was held was [p. 75] fine. The walls were covered with pictures, and on one of the doors was peace riding in some kind of a chariot and crowding war underneath it. The forest about the palace was simply lovely so many trees and pretty drives. We then went to a very fashionable bathing resort called Scheveningen and walked on the sands and esplanade for a long way. The big house on the beach was built of dark red brick and looked beautiful. The Haag has many trees in it along the streets which makes it look very pretty. Bro Nibley was very kind and good. We got to Rotterdam at about 4 oclock and as soon as supper was over left for Arnhem where Conference was to be held. We went first to the hotel and then to the hall and met the Brothers.

3 March 1901 • Sunday

On Sunday we held two meetings. After the morning meeting we took a long walk through a lovely park. Arnhem has about 50,000 inhabitants and is a city where the Rich people make their homes. The streets are wide and there are trees every where. We stayed at the Grand Hotel Soleil near the station.

4 March 1901 • Monday

Monday we had priest hood meeting and monday evening went to Amsterdam. There are lots of canals in Amsterdam and lots of wind mill’s [p. 76] I stayed in a room right near the conference house

5 March 1901 • Tuesday

Tues. morning was dark and stormy, We went to see Queen Wilhelmina who was coming on her wedding trip The whole city was beautifully decorated with evergreens and flowers. flags were flying from most every window and thousands of Chinese lanterns The people were out in full force and were dancing along the streets while from the street organs were sent forth the gayest tunes. Bro Nibley and I stood out in the pouring rain with about a hundred thousand others and waited—waited—waited for about two and a half hours and—talk about your drowned rats! I was fairly soaked but I got a good view of the Queen as she rode past in her gold carriage drawn by 8 lovely black horses. She was bowing to all of the people and they just more than cheered We were standing right near her palace. She was coming on her wedding tour. We then went to the art gallery but it was closed, so we <after> getting a fine dinner we went to the conference house and stayed till 6 oclock when we went to the train accompanied by all of the Brothers. Bro Nibley and Canon came with us to Brussels. [p. 77]

We arrived there at 11 o’clock and I was too sleepy and tired to eat so went right to bed.

Brussels is called the Paris of Belgium. Both French and Hollansche are spoken.

6 March 1901 • Wednesday

Wed. morning was bright and clear. We walked down one of the finest streets and saw the real Brussels lace Boulevard de Anspach was the name of the street. We took the train at 10 to go to Waterloo. The country we passed through seems a little like our own. I saw the church at Waterloo where Victor Hugo wrote La Miserables and where he described the Battle. On the field is a large monument with a lion on the top of it with its foot on a canon looking over into France. The French people don’t like that very well. The monument is 200 feet high and there are 226 steps. There is a large church with 28 monuments to English and other generals. There is also a well where 300 men were put in, in the war It was here that the Duke of Wellington defeated Napolean. We had dinner out there, came back to Brussels and visited the elders. Then went to the Palace of Justice, which is the most wonderful building I have ever seen. It is so massive that you feel awed it is 675 <590> ft long, and 575 ft wide. [p. 78] and is built of white stone. The rooms <some of them> were marble and the doors of solid oak. We also visited an old church The Notre Dame which was built in the 11th. century. Then we went back to the hotel and had supper and then took the train again for Köln. I was sorry to bid Bros Canon and Nibley good bye.

We had a pleasant ride, and arrived at Köln at 11 oclock where we were met by Bro [Robert P.] Herrick, Sister Ramsay and Bro [Arnold H.] Schulthess. The night was one of the most beautiful I have ever seen The moon threw a silvery light over the city. About the first thing I saw was the old cathedral and I don’t think I ever saw any thing that looked more beautiful. It looked like a stately white lily although it was so large and high it looked as delicate as a flower After getting some supper we went for a walk down to the River Rhein. The water looked clear and beautiful. The houses along the bank looked old fashioned but were snowy white in the pale moon light. We crossed back on a bridge of boats, such a funny bridge, then went to the hotel and went to bed.

7 March 1901 • Thursday

Thurs. We didn’t get up very early and after getting our breakfast we went to the Cathedral and went on the dome the height of the towers is 512 ft It was begun in the 12 century and finished in [p. 79] the 19 century. After dinner we took the train for Coblenz [Koblenz] and as soon as we arrived went to the monument of William the Great. One side of it reminded me of the old ampi theatres I had read about. King William was on a horse and by his side is an angel. The monument is built on a point where two streams of the Rhein unite. It was almost dark. Coblenz is built on a sort of an island. We walked back along the river crossed an old bridge of boats and wended our way to an old castle built on a high hill. It is used for a barracks now. We passed several soldiers on the way. When we arrived at the top we walked past the guard and got a fine look at the city. It was a wonderful sight. The city with i[t]s white houses and million lights with the river on either side of it and the monument on the point where the two streams meet. While we were enjoying the scene Bro Schulthess came flying up to us and said come back quick or that man will call the soldiers out it is too late for people to be on the grounds. I was glad for that “stolen view of Coblenz. It is one never to be forgotten.

8–9 March 1901 • Friday–Saturday

Next morning at 9 oclock we took the train for Frankfurt [p. 80] arriving there at noon.1 Frankfürt is an up to date place full of business, rush and go. The streets are wide and the buildings are simply immense. We went to a restraunt near the station and had dinner then went to some of the saints where we met the Brothers—Ashton—Wilson—Wallace—Kelly and some others. They took us for a walk to see the city we saw Rothchilds Home that they live in now and the one where the present one was born. I saw Goethe house and in one side is a window where his father used to stand and watch that he didn’t go to the Beer halls, as he was way ward. It is an old style house. We crossed the Main2 river on an old bridge On one side of the bridge is a rooster, there is a legend about the architect promising the Devil if he would help him to complete the bridge in a certain time he could have the first living being who crossed it, and that first thing that crossed was a rooster. This made the devil so angry that he threw it through the bridge and the place where the hole was is mended with rocks. We saw the old palace where they used to crown the kings, it is called the Rämer<berg> [Römerberg]. The out side of it is covered with old paintings [p. 81] There is a fountain in front that they used to fill with wine when a king was crowned called “Gerich tig keits brüinen [Gerechtigkeitsbrunnen]” <(means the well of justice)>. We saw the old cathedral. Its all painted in side and is like other catholic buildings. At the back of the building, Was a big stone monument of Christ on a cross and the two thieves. It was awful It made me shudder. I went with one of the saints to supper. Their home was simply beautiful. Attended a meeting in the evening and it was fine. I slept at the stylish house in a “perfect dream of a room” Bro Wilson came for me next morning and took me to the priesthood. After meeting which was splendid we went to a little room near the monument to the Hessians to see the Ariodne by Dannecker of Stuttgart. It is one of the finest pieces of sculpture work in the world. It is a woman on a lion. Then we went to the Palm Gardens, they are the finest I ever saw. We came back Sister Toni [blank] to dinner and then went to the station accompanied by all of the Frankfürt missionaries. Bro Wilson gave me a box of chocolates. Another good bye and were gone for Stuttgart. We arrived there at 11 on Saturday night. I was taken away from all of [p. 82] the others to a German house. I slept with a German woman, under a feather bed and I didnt feel very comfortable for I didnt know who had been there before me. I had a circus trying to talk to the people.

10 March 1901 • Sunday

On Sunday morning the woman took me to the hall where I met the missionaries. We held three meetings on Sunday. I had to speak at two of them

11 March 1901 • Monday

Monday 11. We had priesthood meeting till 12 then went and had dinner and from there to the Castle where a fine Band plays every day at noon. The music was fine. Then we went back and finished priesthood meeting and in the evening we had a sort of a social gathering.

12 March 1901 • Tuesday

Tues. 12. We went sight seeing we went first up on one of the hills where we could get a fine view of the city. There was a large monument there. We then visited the art and sculpture gallerie. I saw quite a number of Dannecker’s pieces. I didnt care for many of the pictures, but one was particularly lovely It was where the Devil came to tempt Faust the lights and shades in the picture were simply marvelous. We went again and heard the band play then Bros [Walter A.] Wallace, Coope [W.] Adams and I [p. 83] went to some shops to look at the pictures. At three o’clock we left Stuttgart for Heilbroun where we were met by Bros [Henry] Seeger and [John A.] Hess We just had time to rush to supper and then to the meeting hall. We had a good meeting. After meeting I asked Bro Seeger where I was going and He said O my chief will see to that—he is too wise to leave you to me. I was taken to a house about 20 minutes walk from the hall. When I went to my room I thought I was going to have it to my self and I locked the girl out.

13 March 1901 • Wednesday

Next morning Bro Hess came for me early and we went out to see the city. There was nothing of much importance to see. But is was a pretty little old fashioned german village At 9:30 we left Heilbroun for Saarbrucken. We had rather a long and tiresome ride arriving at the place about 6. Went to the home of Sister Hurst. In the evening we had a nice little social meeting The saints and elders are all united. There were [t]hree elders there Bros Wiler [Walter S. Weiler], [Albert] Toronto, and [Willard W.] Spiers I slept with one of the Saints. The people were all nice to me.

14 March 1901 • Thursday

Next morning we went and had our pictures taken, and then rushed to the [p. 84] train. We always go on the run and this morning was no exception for we went double quick time arriving there just on the minute. We arrived at Straussberg at 12 oclock and were met by Bro Porter and his companion. After having dinner at the restraunt and then took a walk through the city We went to the old cathedral and saw the astronomical clock, climbed up on the tower. We saw an old storks nest on the top of the chimney. Storks are supposed to bring good luck. There were 250 steps to the top of the dome and we were in such a hurry that we only rested once. Then we ran as usual to the street car caught our train and left for Basel in Switzerland. We arrived at the latter town 2½ hours before we expected to. So we took a walk to look at the city. Never have I seen a more beautiful blue sky, many of the building were white and they looked lovely. Across from the station in a pretty little park is a monument, showing a widow and orphans after the war being taken care of by an angel. It was of white marble. We went to the river Rhine and found the water as clear and blue as the sky. There is a large new bridge across it With four dragons of white stone, one on each corner [p. 85] which makes it look very picturesque. The streets are wide for the most part and the city doesn’t seem so crowded as many. There are 110,000 inhabitants We had supper with one of the saints. All <Many> of the houses in Germany and Switzerland have double windows, one in side of the other, and they open on hinges like doors. Most of the houses have no carpets but have pretty oiled wood floors with rugs around. They don’t have much fancy articles all piled in together like they do in England and Scotland. Every thing is more plain and looks cleaner. Most people have two or three rooms, that is the common working class. In all of these cities are electric cars.

15 March 1901 • Friday

March 15. Spent the forenoon sightseeing in Bäsel visited the marketplace, went to the old gates of the city and through the park. The town is divided in to two called Gross Basel and Kleine Basel. We also visited the old cathedral. At the back of it and facing the river is a sort of a court yard with linden trees growing in there and benches under the trees, there were some working people sitting there eating their lunch and it made a pretty picture. Bros Burdett Smith, [John] Leo Hafen and Alfred Reese were with us. There were many old fountains. We passed the Fish Market [p. 86] many of the fish were alive in the tubs of clear water. There seems to be plenty of water every where. We saw a woman holding a baby up to the window and throwing bread to some doves It was a sweet picture After dinner we left for Zürich arriving there at about 5 oclock and went right to the conference house Every thing about the house, even the people seemed scrupulously clean and cold, the windows were all thrown open and there was no fire, not a thing was out of place I was put in charge of a girl who was living there named Marie and she straightened all of my things to suit here taste. I wasn’t feeling at all well, so didn’t eat any supper. Went to bed at about 11 o’clock.

16 March 1901 • Saturday

March 16— My birthday—good bye to my girl hood I am an old maid to day and I feel like it. The house this morning is as clean and cold as ever. Marie wouldn’t let the Bros come in because my tooth brush is on the table.3 We have prayers, every thing is done on time. One by one the Bros arrive they are more or less like the president and don’t seem to think as much of “girl missionaries as in other places although many of them seem warm hearted and kind In the after noon we have a priest hood meeting [p. 87] Bro [James L.] McMurrin gave me two pretty silk handkerchives and some chocolates for my birthday and in the evening we go for a walk down to the Zürich lake. It was a beautiful sight all along the lake are elegant houses with lawns and flowers. There were myriads of lights reflected in the water and as the water moved a little it looked as though all those lights were dancing up and down. The water looked very black and far down in it depths the stars shone at us. When we got home the house was all in darkness so we went right to bed.

17 March 1901 • Sunday

Sunday 17. To day is conference, we have three meetings I speak in the evening and I have the hardest time I have ever had. The meetings were well attended I did not meet many of the people as no one introduced me to them. After meeting at night Bros McMurrin Schulthess Coope and I went to the lake again for a walk.

18 March 1901 • Monday

Monday 18. Went in the forenoon and had our pictures I saw the House were there were many things belonging to Pestalozzi. He was born in this town. We saw many old fashioned houses and churches. We saw a monument of Ulrich Swingly [Zwingli], the great Swiss Reformer. The Limmat River runs through Zurich.4

19 March 1901 • Tuesday

Tues 19. Left Early this morning for Milano in Italy [p. 88] We had a most interesting trip through the Alps. We saw many beautiful lakes beginning with the Zurich Lake, then the lake of the four Cantons, then Lake Lugano and than Lake Como. The Alps were covered with snow. At Airolo the snow was about two feet deep The mountains were fairly covered with house. There were houses even in the tops up among the pines. I don’t wonder that they need St. Bernard dogs to find people who got lost in the snow. Every conceivable spot of ground was used for farming land. We saw the place where the man fell out of his farm. When we arrived at Lake Lugano we saw a picture never to be forgotten. It was just evening and the mountains covered with houses green down by the lake but snow capped, the blue water and all was simply divine no artist could paint it, no poet could describe it, we just got a good view when we went into a tunnel. We crossed the lake and soon came to Chiaso where we had our luggage examined. I could tell I was in Italy. the station was filled with people who look like the “hand organ” people so well known in other countries, and they were all chattering like so many monkeys. The soldiers and gards wore long dark capes and looked [p. 89] like people in theatres. We arrived in Milano at about 7 and after some rushing around to find a hotel went to the Opera of Faust.5 I had 10l6c 6 seats in what would be the parquet at home. The house was elegant. There were 6 circles one right above the other and all just even like so many shelves of a cupboard and they were filled with the “elite of Milano” It was all like a real story such lights such divine music, such elegant people in their boxes, such dresses. I was fairly bewildered by all of this grandeur. I forgot me, forgot every thing but this new world I had suddenly been ushered into. There were 75 musicians in the orchestra. The violins seemed to talk and cry and wail and moan. I cried, I was very sad, was very much excited “and every thing else” (I end up with this last expression because I have run out of words) The Devil had the most wonderful base voice I have ever heard, you could hear him above all the instruments. Verdi’s grave that great musician is in Milano. We went to the restraunt and had supper after the opera, I was so sleepy I could hardly eat and then we went to the hotel and went to bed, I was so tired I didnt move till the man woke me in the morning [p. 90] We went after breakfast to the “Gallerie” a sort of an Arcade running off in to four streets and in the center of it is an immense dome filled with paintings (painted on the wall of it I mean) and then to the Cathedral. It is immense. There are 4000 statues on it. It is not so delicate looking as the one at Köln. Milano seems old. The houses all have red tiled roofs. It was still raining. We went to the station along a street that has a row of immense old trees through the middle of it. When we got off of the car, Bro McMurrin forgot his valise, and we could not get time to find it. Bro Coope was remaining in Milano so he said he would look for it. The country from Milano to Rome is not so very beautiful. There are many old broken down dirty houses. We saw some fine orchards of fig trees. We arrived at Rome at 11 oclock and as usual I was too tired and sleepy to know what my name was. We went to a fine hotel right near the station and after supper went to bed.

A day in Rome that wonderful city that sits on seven hills and once ruled the world now it is a city of Ruins, both of people and buildings. It seems sad that a place that was once so [p. 91] great should be such a “failure” now. We went first on the street car to St. Peters and the Vatican on the way we passed some beautiful and some poverty stricken streets. There seem to be the two extremes of wealth and poverty and each hightens the effect of the other. The first sight of St. Peters is disappointing it looks like it was yellow with age, along the top are statues of Christ and the 12 apostles. The front has some large plain pillers across it and many steps lead to the entrance. As soon as you get through the doors you are awed at the splendor of the building. The inside both walls and floor is <are> of polished marble of different colors and how is shines!! There are hundreds of statues of <by> the best Italian sculptures adorning the building and many great paintings, by among the most noted are those by Michael Angelo and Raphealo. As in all Catholic Churches there are many alters, candles, confession boxes. There is a statue of St. Peter in Bronz and the people come by and kiss the toe of it. The foot is worn where the toe has been kissed so much. There is a little jeweled cupboard about 1½ x 1 x 9in in which is a skull of one of the saints. The cupboard is solid gold set with diamonds and must be worth [p. 92] more than 1000 franks. There are also other bones of saints in other gold cases. We saw many monks in their long dresses and some of them wore sandals on their feet. In strange contrast with the grandeur of the scene, was the poor worshipers, some lying face downard on the floor some kneeling some standing with bowed heads and folded arms. Their poverty was enough to touch a heart of stone and seemed all the more sad in such a splendid place. I could have spent days in this one building alone. It will hold 80,000. We then went to the Vatican and saw the picture gallerie. There was one room [Capella Sistina] that it took Michael Angelo some years to pain[t], representing earth from the beginning to the last judgment that was splendid. We also saw a picture of the Transfiguration by Raphealo. There was a large painting showing the place where Thomas doubted the Saviour and where Christ says put your hand into my side etc, also a picture of the “resurrection of Christ” a picture of Constantine seeing the Cross and hundreds of others. Another one that was particularly striking was Siloam with John the Baptists head and his body was lying on the floor. We went from here back to the hotel to dinner, then [p. 93] took a carriage as our time was so short and started out again, going first to a little Church also of polished marble inside where we saw Michael Angelo’s master piece a statue of Moses, that is wonderful The very veins in his hands and arms are there and the eyes are as natural as life you could hardly believe that the whole thing was stone, It seems as though it ou[gh]t to move and breathe. From here we went to the Colleseum, the greatest ruin in the world, and it did look wonderful standing against the blue Italian sky. We stood in the arena where so many scenes of blood shed and terror have happened, we saw the doors where they used to let the wild beasts in to eat up the Christians also saw the places where the audience used to sit and view the scenes of horror. Now it is quiet and peaceful. Grass is growing in the arena and tiny flowers and birds are singing among the ruins. The sky above looked divine, out side the Colleseum children were playing. Dozens of beggars, people selling cards, pictures books, little ornaments etc infest these places and make you almost glad to get in the carriage once more and away. We saw the old Roman Forum which is nothing now but a few pillars and many broken ones lying [p. 94] all over the ground also the Trajan Forum—more ruins. The Capitol of Rome is right by the latter it is built on a high hill and many steps lead up to it*. There is some statuary about also. We then went to a Church out Side of the city called St Pauls out side the walls. (*right here also is the old prison where Paul and Peter were imprisoned and where the jailor was converted) St Pauls is about as lovely as St Peters all polished marble with beautiful statues and paintings. There are paintings of all the Popes from the first down to Leo XIII. Most of the paintings represent instances in the life of Paul. We then went to the catacombs they are under churches. We went down the St Sebastian one. An old monk led the way down the dark narrow passages, along each side of which were vaults containing bodies. Many of the bodies had been removed and the empty spaces are there The monk was dressed in brown and had sandals on his feet, and no stockings. He looked like some ghost of the past haunting the dark old passages with a tiny candle light to guide him. I felt frightened and kept as close to Bro McMurrin as missionary rules would allow, and I was [p. 95] glad to get out again. In the evening we went for a walk to a pretty park and walked around it and to a fine fountain, the moon was shining brightly and every thing was lovely. Here we were in the land where it was summer, and we thoroughly enjoyed it all, one day with out a care.7 Oh! happy day long may I remember it as one of the brightest in this life of mine. I went to bed and dreamed Rome8.

We also visited the Pantheon. It was a great round building with pillars of marble on the portico the roof was some thing after the style of the Albert Hall in London only right in the center of the building the dome had no roof on it and the all clear blue sky showed through with a bright little star looking down in the the building that seemed gloomy and dark in the evening twilight, the statues seemed like dreamy white figures and the tiny candles threw their lights on the worshiping people. This was built 27 years before Christ. It was built in honor of Augustus Ceasaer but was rejected by him and later was given to the Roman Emperors and later was consecrated to the Virgin Mary. The remains of the late King who was ass[ass]inated are here. [p. 96] The Tiber River runs through the City, it is very dirty kind of brown from the soil. It is a little larger than the Clyde. This is the river where Cassias was bid by Ceaser to follow him and when Ceaser weighed down by armor began to go under he called “Save me Cassias or I sink[”]

22 March 1901 • Friday

March 22. This morning we got up bright and early to catch the train leaving at about 7 oclock. Our Hotel was very near the station, we took one fare well look at this city as the train hurled us by, saw in the distance some of the places we had visited saw the old wall around the city. Saw men and women ploughing with white or kind of gray colored oxen saw some fine gardens and then the city was gone and for many miles there was nothing of importance to be seen the country wasn’t cultivated at all some times it was level and some times hilly. As the day wore on we came to a more thriving country and beheld some real oriental cities. Most of the cities were built on high hills, and the tints and “shades of the atmosphere” gave it a wonderful appearance. I thought of the words of the Savior when he said “A city that is set on a hill can not be hid”9 [p. 97] And then we came to the Mediterranean Sea and for a few hours we were wild with delight at the wonderful scenes we passed, artists and poets are defied to describe it as it was. The coast was rough and rugged and the water surged over the rocks and dashed its self in to foam among the caverns. Old castles that defy both time and the elements stand out prominent on some of the most bleak and rugged places, the sky was being with heavy clouds like a black veil casting its shadow into the water that was neither blue nor black but had a tinge that the air takes in twilight just before a storm, the scene thrilled me, I felt awed, and pleased and surprised by turns. We were so close that we could even hear the dashing of the water on the rocks far out were ships with their white sails against the lowering clouds and I felt like calling them in out of the dark. A little vessel seems helpless in such a vast expanse of water. Ever and anon we came into the city, with it oriental homes, with gardens of oranges and lemons, palms etc. It made me romantic I wanted to wander among those quiet gardens, I wanted to go the water and look far [p. 98] down into its depths and think! Think! Think! I wanted to live over some scenes of the past to settle some thoughts of the present, and to wonder as I have often wondered what the future has in store for me. I wanted to be alone with dear old nature and the Lord, I felt that some hours in these scenes of delight would make me truer to myself and to the Lord, but the train whised on just as fast and I met these scenes and parted from them in one minute. At about 7 oclock we came to the old City of Genoa there were lots of ships, the houses were built on high hills and on one hill right near the station was a fine monument. We arrived in Milano at 10:30 were met at the station by Bro Coope and went right to the Hotel and after supper went to bed. I was so sleepy I ate supper with my eyes shut.

23 March 1901 • Saturday

Next morning we got up early the day was simply lovely we could get a good view of the city from the Hotel Window, such an ancient looking place as we looked down on the red tiled roofs. We arrived In Lucerne at about 12 oclock after a pleasing ride through the Alps and after dinner Bro Schulthess a I went for a boat ride on the [p. 99] Lake then went to the City. There is nothing of particular interest only from a stand point of beauty fine walks, fine hotels, souvenier shops filled with articles carved from wood. We went to the Glacial Gardens where there was an immense lion carved out of stone in a cave in one side of the mountain. We also visited one of the saints and left Lucerne for Berne for Conference at 7 oclock arriving in Berne at something after 10. It had been snowing and was very cold, the city looked very quaint, the houses were all built out over the side walk making a kind of an arcade with heavy stone pillars on the edge. We went right to the conference house where we found several letters awaiting us. After supper we went to bed.

24 March 1901 • Sunday

Sunday 24. Attended meeting in the morning and after noon. In the evening went for a walk across the new bridge over the Aare River! to the old clock just at 7. There is a procession of Bears march out, a rooster that crows and a dragon that moves its head from side to side In the streets were the oddest old fountains. One was a big giant eating children called the [“]Kinderfresser” Bern it is said was named from Bear. When they wanted to name the city they decided that they [p. 100] would all go out and the first animal that was found should be the city’s name. We went to a place where there was a BearenGrauben [Bärengraben] and there were four bears 2 little ones and two big ones The people seemed to be out on a gala day. They are not so religious as the Scotch.

25 March 1901 • Monday

Monday 25. Left Berne at 6 oclock in the morning. I was pretty tired as I had sat up late Sunday night writing <to> papa. The day was simply lovely we took the train Inter laken and had time to walk around the city it was a delightful little place among the mountains there were some fine Hotels, from here we went on the boat across the Brienz Seea, we had a nice cozy little breakfast on the boat and arrived at Brienz in about an hour and a half. Never was a sky more blue, or water more clear, there seemed to be heavens above and beneath us, it was a real happy contented sort of a day, nobody seemed to have any cares Bro Schulthess sang the “Tyrolese and Heis Child” and is sounded lovely, from Brienz we went on the train to Myringen [Meiringen?] and while the man was getting the carriage to take us over the Brunig Pass, as there was no train going we went to an [p. 101] hotel and had dinner then went in a carriage to the Aareschlucht it is a narrow gourge in the mountains where the Aare river has cut out its way through in some places the cliffs are almost touching each other and far far up a tiny bit of blue sky is seen and deep down the river runs idly along. In its clear depths fish are swimming two and fro quite unconscious of our intrusion. A little path has been made along the side of the mountain so turists could get a good view of this lovely spot in nature’s panorama. Then we started to go up over the mountains. The scene was scarcely so wild as our mountain scenes at home. We were up among the pines. After about two hours ride we changed for a sleigh as the snow was very deep. Houses were built all over these hills and far up on one of the high cliffs was an elegant hotel. While we were waiting to change the carriage for a sleigh, We Bro S. and I had a “snow ball” I beat10. We call it the war of the Brunig pass America against Switzerland Think of it a walk, a run, a train ride, a boat ride, a buggy ride and a sleigh ride all in one day. [p. 102]

We arrived in Zurich at about 10 oclock and were met by Bro Mc.Donald and went to the conference house and then to bed.

26 March 1901 • Tuesday

March 2611 This morning was dark and stormy, we were going to the falls of the Rhein It is Bro. Mc.Murrins birthday.12 Bro Schulthess intended to go with us but he did not arrive so we went alone. By the time we arrived at Hauffhausen [Schaffhausen] the weather had changed for the better. The first view I got of the falls I was disappointed in them but when we came nearer I found that they were wonderful. The water falls over a cascade, and the white foam was surging over the rocks in fury. We got several different views of the falls, first we walked down a narrow path to the bank opposite them then went to the castle that is built on a high hill and there are steps leading down to the river. The castle is called "Laufen”. The view from the castle was one never to be forgotten. Altogether it was a happy day. Im always happy when I forget my self and live with lovely nature, that seems to have no cares, and makes every heart glad that comes near to it [p. 103] I fancy that no matter what trials a person may have, there are none with hearts so sad, or lives so dark that “nature13 could not soothe. It can neither flatter nor deceive, it is alike to all and I felt better for another day away from humanity. There were some birds singing in the trees near the falls and the noise of the water was a fine accompaniment. I was sorry when the time came for me to leave this spot and return to the busy world again. We arrived in WinterThur at 1 o’clock and were met by Bro. Billiter. Winterthur looked just as I expected it would it was snowing and cold. It is like other german towns. There are about 75,000 inhabitants. We spent the afternoon with Bro and Sister Billiter and in the evening attended a meeting.

27 March 1901 • Wednesday

March. 27th. This morning presents a real genuine winter scene the sun shines on the frozen snow and a million diamond dew drops sparkle in the sun I go to the window and take a long breath of the pure air and a long look at the winter scene then hurry into my clothes, eat breakfast and am ready to the station. We take the train to Romanshorn then have a boat ride across “Lake Constance” a pretty name and suitable for so beautiful a lake [p. 104] It took us about an hour to cross then we took the train again for Münich—once more we are on German territory. We arrived at Münich at 5:30. and were met at the station by Bros [Thomas E.] McKay and Canon. There are 400,000 people in this city. It is a place for large breweries. In the evening I went to meeting. Had to speak for a short time, and went with some of the saints to sleep at night. Bro McKay came for me next morning and brought me to the station we were hurried for time so didn't do much sight seeing.

28 March 1901 • Thursday

Arrived at Nürnberg March 28 at 11:30 Were met by Brother Hohne and we hurried down to the old clock built high up on the front of the Frauen Kirche. The clock just “acts” once a day and we arrived on the spot just in time for the preformance. The image of the saviour is in the middle and the apostles march out before him and each one turns and bows and Jesus raises his hand in acknowledgement, they passed before him four times and then two men one on each side of the clock blow long gold horns. There is an old fountain called the Fountain of Beauty and if you wash in it you will be beautiful so says the legend [p. 105] The Markt Platz is right in front of the Fraüen Kirche and hundreds of contented old ladies sat comfortably waiting for some one to buy their goods. I some times feel that I might learn a lesson in contentment from these poor souls who seem to feel that even in their circumstances there is so much sunshine14 in the world. Then we went and had dinner in Hans Sacks [Sachs’s] cobbler shop. He was a fine poet. The house is now a restraunt. After dinner we visited the old and new “Rathauses” or court houses we call them. There was nothing of particular interest connected with the visit. The ceiling of the hall in the old house was the representation of a battle and the figures looked like pieces of statuary stuck on to the roof. It must have been done in Plaster paris from there we visited the <Nürnberg> castle where many instruments of torture are still kept as relics of barbarism of by gone days. We saw an old tree 800 years old. In the courtyard is a well 335 feet deep cut out of solid rock, it took 30 years to make it. There is an underground passage leading from the Rat hous to the well a woman let some candles down and then held a looking glass so we could see [p. 106] the water. It takes 6 seconds for water to fall from the top to the bottom. Not many years since a queen lived in this castle and it is just the same as it was when she was there. We visited some other old churches and then took a walk around the walls of the city. It is one of the quaintest old places I have ever seen. After supper we went to meeting and I went with one of the saints to sleep. They don't have much liberty here, they have to hold meetings on the sly. We had a good meeting.

29 March 1901 • Friday

March 29. Went to Chemnitz attended the meeting in the evening it was the first public meeting ever held in the city. I slept at No 5 Josephine St. so felt quite at home.

30 March 1901 • Saturday

March 30. Left this morning early for Dresden. After dinner and a bath, went out sight seeing. Dresden is a beautiful city the streets are wide many of them many of the monuments are of gold leaf. There are a number of elegant buildings quite close to gether The Art gallery, the Kings church and castle, the sculpture gallery and some others. The Elbe river runs through the city. We walked over the old bridge where Bro [Karl G.] Maeser under stood Bro [Franklin D.] Richards.15 We saw the house where Schiller used to live, and Goethe [p. 107] and also Bulow [Hans von Bülow] — the greatest orchestra leader in the world. We visited the porcelain shop and saw some elegant pieces of work and the prices that accompanied them were elegant.

31 March 1901 • Sunday

Sunday we attended Three meetings I spoke in the morning.

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March 1901, Journals of Early Sister Missionaries, accessed May 18, 2024